Makeup Over 50: Tips for a Natural, Ageless Look with Makeup Artist Danielle Arminio
Between my changing eyesight and my changing skin, lately my eyeliner application looks like something out of an abstract painting! As my crow’s feet migrate south (along with the rest of my face) and my skin is generally less smooth and supple than it once was (sigh!), I find it much more difficult to cover dark circles, even out skin tone, minimize the look of pores, etc., etc. Look, I genuinely do believe that it’s a privilege to age, and I think it’s important to accept the realities that come with it, but that doesn’t mean I want to stop trying to look my best. And I think that makeup can be a very effective tool toward that end, if used sparingly and properly. However, I don’t think I’ve learned any new application techniques since I was in my 20’s, other than the random tip or two I’ve picked up in Sephora over the years, so I thought we should call in the big guns to get some help!
I am thrilled to have the opportunity to speak with Danielle Arminio, a sought-after NYC makeup artist (and midlife beauty!) who has 20+ years of experience in the industry. Danielle started her career working with Bobbi Brown, and was a member of her beauty team for eight years before going out on her own. She has done hair and makeup for Fashion Week, Broadway, television, magazine shoots, commercials, and many special projects. Whether she’s working with celebrities on set or brides on their wedding day, Danielle has a gift for making everyone look and feel special through her artistry. I talked to Danielle about how we can adapt our makeup routines to achieve a natural, ageless look in midlife. Let’s hear what she had to say:
As we move through perimenopause and menopause, we lose collagen, and with it, elasticity. Our skin also becomes drier, which can cause makeup to settle into fine lines and wrinkles- not a good look! Are there any products, such as serums or primers, that can help prep the skin for better application?
The first thing to remember is that moisturizer and eye cream are our best friends. I suggest using both liberally twice a day. Another good habit to get into is exfoliating, which I do in the shower so I don’t forget. You can choose to use a moisturizing cleanser with gentle exfoliating properties every day, or use a regular daily moisturizing cleanser, and then a more intense exfoliant 3-4 times per week. Exfoliating encourages cell turnover, helps get rid of dead skin, and gives an overall smoother, brighter appearance to the skin. Serums are great to add to the mix—anything with AHA/Lactic Acid will help lessen the appearance of dark spots and fine lines. Vitamin C serums or creams help lend an overall brightness to the skin and is a great “one stop shop” if you’re not into long and expensive regimens. My two favorite products for anti-aging skin care are the Bobbi Brown Extra collection of moisturizers and cleansers, and the Sunday Riley Good Genes line of serums and creams. I generally steer clear of primers. I really only use them on clients with very oily skin or with active acne breakouts.
https://www.dermalogica.com/collections/exfoliants/products/daily-microfoliant
https://m.bobbibrowncosmetics.com/extra-skincare
https://m.bobbibrowncosmetics.com/product/14008/12762/skincare/eye-care/hydrating-eye-cream/fh10
https://sundayriley.com/collections/feel-good-with-good-genes
What about foundation? What should we look for in terms of ingredients and formulas to help keep us looking dewy and hydrated?
I very rarely use a full strength foundation on women over 40. My go-to trick is to use a tinted moisturizer all over the face, and then, if there are any glaring areas of redness, or blemishes remaining, I’ll take a skin-tone color foundation stick (my forever favorite is the Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation Stick), and spot use it in those places only. Pro tip: add a small dab of liquid highlighter to your tinted moisturizer for an extra “glow”.
While we’re talking about foundation, how do we choose the right color/tone? Should it “match” our skin tone, or should it be a little bit darker to add some warmth?
Your foundation should always exactly match the natural color of your face. The best way to find out if a foundation is the right shade is to swipe some onto the side of your face between cheek and chin, and slightly rub it in. It should exactly match your neck. Never try to determine your shade by testing it on your hand.
The best way to get that “warmth” we all covet is to use bronzer, in either a cream or sheer powder form. Make sure to choose a matte formula, and apply to all of the areas of your face where you would naturally get color if you sat in the sun for a bit: forehead, temples, cheeks, nose, and a bit on your chin. Always blend well with a fluffy brush. Pro tip: apply bronzer directly under your chin, and in the middle of your neck, blending down toward your décolleté. Our neck is almost always lighter than our chest; doing this will make everything look seamless.
Is it helpful to apply foundation with a sponge or other tool, or is it okay to just use our hands?
Either is fine, I think. In the past I would buy the big bags of disposable wedge sponges, but I stopped since they're not eco-friendly. The reusable egg shaped blenders are great, but you must clean them weekly as they can harbor bacteria. One good thing about using blending wedges/eggs, as opposed to your fingers, is that you can wet them and use to sheer out your tinted moisturizer or foundation.
Concealer is another big issue for me. And with midlife sleep issues, I find that I need it now more than ever! But it’s difficult to find the right formula (so many are too heavy or too cakey), and I’m never sure about the right tone (darker or lighter than skin tone?). Pots? Wands? Method of application? Help!
Finding the right concealer is like searching for the Holy Grail. I have tried a hundred different formulas and brands and found a few go-to’s I can’t live without. The only “rule” I have is that your concealer needs to be roughly one shade lighter than your face/foundation. For women over 50, the two most important factors to consider are consistency and brightness. Some people may have to use two products to achieve the best result. You want a formula that has a nice balance of being creamy/non-drying while providing good coverage. If you have discoloration issues (i.e. dark circles), as most of us do, you’ll need to use a “corrector” as your first step. This is a concealer product with either a peachy or pinky tone which will work to counter-balance any gray or purple discoloration. Bobbi Brown‘s line of correctors are great—and there’s a shade for every skin tone. If you find it necessary to slightly tone down the corrector, you’ll then apply a shade of concealer that’s one level lighter than your skin tone. I love Mac’s Mineralize Concealer for its moisturizing formula and ease of use. Some lucky ladies can get away with using one or the other of these products alone. Unfortunately, it can often be a trial and error situation to find the perfect concealer product for you. Pro Tip: use a medium sized flat brush to apply concealer under eyes and into the inner corner next to your nose, then pat (do not rub) with your ring finger to blend. I put concealer on before the tinted moisturizer/foundation, but many people prefer the opposite.
My other fave concealers:
https://www.sisley-paris.com/en-US/phyto-cernes-eclat-100102.html
https://inglotusa.com/concealers/101-amc-cream-concealer
Eyeliner application has become a real challenge. First, I can’t see very well up close (guessing you can’t help with that!), and also, the skin has become a bit looser. Any tips on application method, and should we be using kohl, gel or liquid liners? Is there any way to prep the eye lid?
I guess this is a good time to mention that I ascribe to a “less is more” approach to makeup for women over 50. Obviously for a special occasion like a wedding or gala, going all out can look great and be a lot of fun, but for daily wear, I believe a pared down look is more flattering for most of us. Regarding eye liner, my go-to method of application is to take a very dark brown (black for darker skin) LONG WEAR pencil and apply it as closely as possible to the lashes of the eyelid. Then I use a small slanted brush to soften the line. I do this by smushing the brush back and forth on top of the line, then dragging some of the color slightly upward on the outer edges of the eye, to give a little “lift”. I almost never use liner on the bottom, but if I do, I‘ll use a thin liner brush with a medium or dark brown powder shadow to draw a very soft diffuse line.
What about eye shadow? I generally don’t wear any, but what formulas work best for aging eye-lids?
Again, my “less is more approach” drives my shadow choices. One great every day trick is to take a fluffy blender brush (kind of like a tiny blush brush) and use your bronzer as eye shadow. Apply it only to the crease/contour area, not too close to your brow bone, and blend well. For a night out, using a sheer and slightly shimmery cream shadow in a neutral/pinky tone is special looking, but easy to apply. I love Glossier’s Lidstar in Cub.
https://www.glossier.com/products/lidstar
Let’s talk about eyebrows. They tend to become more sparse as we get older. Should we be filling them in, and if so, what is the best way to do that?
Brows...the struggle is real! Between concealers and brow products, I could fill a shipping container. In my never-ending quest I have found a few great products that help fill in the sparse areas without being too harsh. One of my go-to options is a pen that has a teeny tiny brush tip. I draw in small hair strokes only where they’re needed, and extend/thicken the tail a bit if it’s too short or thin. Then I always soften and blend with a spoolie. For a night out I may take a stiff, slanted eyebrow brush and add some powder shadow (one shade lighter than my brow hair) to shape and fill them out a bit more. In either case, I finish with a clear brow gel to brush them up and keep them in place.
https://stilacosmetics.com/collections/brow/products/stay-all-day-reg-waterproof-brow-color
https://m.bobbibrowncosmetics.com/product/2327/69383/makeup/eyes/brows/brow-kit/fh19#/shade/Dark
https://www.glossier.com/products/boy-brow
How about mascara? It’s the one thing I tend to wear daily, even if I’m not wearing any other makeup. There are so many options out there—any favorites?
Mascara is a must-do for me too. I feel like it does so much with very little effort. I do suggest curling your lashes first. Get the Shu Uemura brand curler—you’ll thank me! As far as favorites, you can’t go wrong with the good ole’ green and pink—Maybelline Great Lash. I prefer the waterproof formula because there’s nothing worse than working so hard on your concealer only to end up with raccoon eyes from smudgy mascara. Lancome and Tarte are also among my favorite brands. Pro tip: keep a needle nose tweezer in your arsenal to separate any clumps that may form in your lashes after application. (Don’t use this one to pluck your eyebrows, though, unless you disinfect between uses).
Moving on to blush and/or bronzer—any tips for choosing the right tones? What about application? When I was young I was always told to smile and apply to the apples of the cheeks. Now that things are starting to drop, is that still the best method of application?
I discussed bronzer above, but for blush—you’ve still got the right idea for application. A good tip for over 50 gals, though, is to concentrate on the upper/outer area of our “apples”. You don’t want to bring the color too far toward your nose. What I do is apply to the apples, then blend out and up toward the temple/hairline, then slightly down as well (to avoid the 1980’s streaky look). As far as formula, a cream is best for mature skin. My fave is the Stila Convertable Color in Petunia—it works for just about every skin tone. If you choose a powder, sheer and buildable is best.
https://stilacosmetics.com/products/convertible-color?variant=33132322357351#Image16265291268199
https://m.bobbibrowncosmetics.com/products/14021/makeup/face/blush#
Any tips for aging lips? How can we make them look fuller? Is lip liner still a thing?
I love the idea of a nice tinted gloss for every day. It’s easy to apply, and will always make your lips appear plumper. Yes, liner is still a thing, but these days we makeup artists tend to choose a color which is the same tone, or very slightly darker, than our clients’ lips. There’s a great trick I use, which is to apply a little bit of moisturizing lip balm, then sketch in the lipliner going from the outline inward—leaving the center of both lips bare. Then apply a peachy or pinky tone gloss over top. Another great option is to use a sheer, creamy lipstick in a pinky/coral or berry tone to help add a youthful brightness to your lips. I always stay away from matte lipstick formulas and harsh reds. A little bit of shimmer in your gloss or lipstick is okay, but definitely avoid anything too glittery.
https://www.charlottetilbury.com/us/product/lip-cheat-pillowtalk
https://www.surrattbeauty.com/collections/best-sellers/products/lipslique?variant=31365263327299
Any other thoughts or tips on midlife makeup routines?
Keep it simple! Toss anything you don’t use, and streamline your skin care, makeup and brush area. Most of us have enough going on in our lives to overwhelm us, why not make your “beauty space” a little sanctuary? Pro tip: use one drawer, basket or organizer to contain all of your every day makeup/skin care items, and have a separate area for your “night out” and other lesser used products. This way when you wake up to face the day, and your beauty routine, you’ll have only what you need in your immediate space.
Danielle Arminio
We are so grateful to Danielle for sharing her valuable wisdom and advice! You can learn more about her here: http://www.daniellearminiomakeup.com/ and on IG @arminiomakeup
And if you are in the NYC area and looking for a talented makeup artist, I highly recommend you get in touch with her!